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Which Pashley? A women’s guide to choosing a Pashley Bicycle.

Thanks for the replies everyone — I dropped Pashley a line and they came back with a very nice response, which shows the Guvnor is quite a bit lighter than the roadsters — reproduced below. I suspect that not only the saddle, but the mudguards (Steel?), chainguard, coat guard, rear rack and the rather grand drop-down stand add a bit. When I’ve seen and tried my friend’s bike I’ll see if the handlebars, seatpost etc. are steel as well!

«Good Morning Richard

Thanks for getting in touch,

Our bicycles do tend to vary in weight depending on the size of the bicycle and even with each bicycle built, This is due to the hand crafted nature of our bikes that does allow some variance in amount of braze and metal used, But I must lend this attribute to the charm of the bicycle and it is certainly something that the machine built cycles of other companies do not adhere to, Our bicycles are built to be comfortable and robust, this does tend to increase weight slightly over modern hybrid style cycles, but will certainly out last them!

That said I do have our average weights for the Roadster and Guvnor models, The Roadster Sovereign will average around 23kg and the Guvnor will weigh around 14.5kg as it is built with the lighter weight «racing» steel.

I do hope this helps
Blake Lavelle Customer Service Manager»

Even so, I must admit if I had the dosh I’d like one, just for the fun of it!

Brompton, Condor Heritage, creaky joints and thinning white (formerly grey) hair
«»You know you’re getting old when it’s easier to ride a bike than to get on and off it» — quote from observant jogger !


Postby Jeff the Old » 2 Dec 2017, 3:06pm

Do not worry about the weight, once going they move very nicely and keep on going. I have several, all have proved to be indestructible and so comfortable. And British to the core. Wish she whom has to be obeyed would let me have more, I want one of each.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Pashley cycling! Much of the Pashley women’s range is designed around a single iconic Pashley loop frame with slight differences depending on the model. The differences usually take the form of colour, gears, handlebar shape and optional extras such as locks, lights and pannier racks. Although the Pashley website is beautifully set out it can be difficult to get a grasp of the differences these subtle changes can make to your riding experience.

Before we go into detail about the specific models it’s important to emphasise that certain characteristics are present throughout the range:

Ground surface — all the Pashley bikes that we’ll be discussing (except the Penny) are suited to leisure and commuting cycling, ideally on a smooth hard surface — a road or a cycle path. The tyres and the bikes themselves are certainly tough enough to withstand bumpy tracks or loose gravel but the riding position is pretty loose and doesn’t offer great control on unpredictable ground.

Weight — weight does vary throughout the range but Pashley bikes are not considered light. The lightest Pashley we’ll be discussing is the Poppy which weighs approx 17kg. Whilst it makes owning one in a flat a little tricky it does mean you have an amazingly smooth ride that flies along very happily at speed.

Posture — Once again with exception of the Penny, all the Pashley models are upright and can be adjusted to suit your posture. The aim is for all your weight to travel through your bottom onto the bouncy Brooks saddle and for there to be no tension in your arms, back or wrists. Fantastic for anyone who experiences any problems in those areas.

Maintenance —  Gears and brakes are safely tucked away into the hubs on the front and rear wheel. This means that the parts are protected against the elements and very unlikely to ever go wrong. Everything else from the tyres to the chain is carefully chosen to be of the highest quality and unlikely to perish.

OK, let’s get started!

The Pashley Princess Classic/Sovereign

The Princess is the infamous Pashley model that has changed very little in appearance since the 1950’s. The Princess uses the one frame design and is painted in black or British racing green. It’s available in three different levels:

pashley princess classic vintage womens bike

Level 1. The Princess Classic £595 18kg — this is the most basic, stripped back version with a simple three speed Sturmey Archer hub (gears), pump and basket. 

pashley princess sovereign classic womens vintage bike review

Pashley princess sovereign new vintage womens bike

Level 2. The Princess Sovereign (5 speed) £695 20kg

The Princess Sovereign has been kitted out with extras such as a wheel lock, pannier rack, dynamo lights and 5 speed hub. These two extra gears do make a difference when going faster along flat ground but not hugely when attempting a hill. This is because while you’re gaining two extra gears you are also gaining two extra kg in weight due to the lock and pannier rack. So it’s worth bearing in mind when comparing the Princess Classic and Sovereign that while you gain a lot of add ons with the Sovereign it is a heavy bike and will not work if you need to carry it up any steps, lift it into a car or live in a hilly area. 

pashley princess sovereign classic womens vintage bike review

pashley princess sovereign 8 speed classic vintage womens bike

Level 3. The Princess Sovereign (8 speed) £775 20kg

The extra gears on this are now really making a difference and although the weight is still the same as the Sovereign 5 speed, getting up hills is noticeably easier and you can pick up plenty of speed on the flat. If you live in a hilly area and can stretch to the higher price tag we would certainly recommend going for this over the 5 speed. 

The Pashley Sonnet Pure £575 18kg

pashley sonnet pure classic womens vintage bike review

pashley sonnet pure classic vintage womens bike review

This is identical to the Princess Classic but uses different colour ways.

The Pashley Sonnet Bliss £675 20kg

pashley sonnet pure classic womens vintage bike review

Again the same as the Princess Sovereign, just using different colour ways.

The Pashley Britannia £675 — £755

pashley britannia classic womens vintage bike pashley  review

pashley britannia classic womens vintage bike review

This has been a favourite at Bell’s for some time. Again it features the same classic Pashley loop frame but they have managed to add some amazing extras whilst keeping the weight to a minimum. It has 5 gears, an integrated dynamo hub which produces a strong light and the softest leather hand grips which are handmade locally to Stratford on Avon. It’s still by no means a light bike but at 18kg it you can happily manage medium hills and lift it up a few steps if you had to. While the tyres can handle rough tracks pretty well the Pashley Britannia is at it’s best on more stable surfaces due to the steering position.

It is also available with an 8 speed hub which suddenly takes this bike to the next level. It’s now a versatile bike that can manage most hills with relative ease and is great for longer distances too.

The Pashley Poppy £495 17 kg

pashley poppy classic womens vintage bike review

The Poppy is the lightest in the range and with exception to the Penny the most sporty. It has straighter handlebars which allow for a stronger more responsive reaction and the frame has been stripped back of any extras to allow for an unencumbered nippy ride.

pashley poppy classic womens vintage bike review

pashley poppy classic vintage womens bike review

This would be a great option if you wanted to commute on a Pashley as it would be able to navigate traffic well, you could carry it up a few steps if you needed to. It’s also more affordable than some of the other models so perhaps less precious for everyday riding. It has three gears only so it wouldn’t be great for hill dwellers but perfect otherwise.

The Pashley Penny £575 17kg

pashley penny classic vintage womens bike review

pashley penny classic vintage womens bike review

Suddenly we see a breakaway from the Classic Pashley frame. While using many of the same parts we now how a really versatile hybrid which can handle your daily commute but also pretty rough ground. The position is less upright and the handlebars are straighter which result in a stronger position.

pashley penny classic vintage womens bike review

It has five gears so it can handle hills pretty well and is a fantastic alternative to a dull hybrid. The only down side again is that at 18kg this isn’t an ideal bike if you want a light weight city bike.

And there we have it. Although we are big Pashley fans I hope we’ve been able to give you an impartial honest starting point when looking for a Pashley. We are always happy to go into more detail if you have any questions. Just give us a call on 01424 716 541 or send us an email to

Also considering a Bobbin? You may find this helpful:

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Pashley Princess Options — Page 2

Thread necromancy but here goes: my 16 years old daughter is being bribed by her parents with promises of a new bike if she agrees to cycle to 6th form starting this September (the provision of free school bus stops after this school year). It is a battle of wills, punctuated with various negotiating stances on both sides, e.g. daughter wants lifts from mum, we suggest cycling as difficult to fit in lifts with other commitments, daughter says too scared to cycle on road… but then suggests moped…., we point out much more dangerous than bicycle and offer training plus the bicycle of her choice up to the cost of a year’s bus transport, i.e. ~£600 (and its only 3 miles each way!).

Its only a three mile journey each way, plus the bike should still be useful for her when she (hopefully) goes away to college at 18. Daughter is very style conscious and it turns out the bicycle of her choice would be something traditional with a basket on the front! So far the front runner is the Pashley Britannia (based on Princess with brighter frame colours, cream coloured tyres and one or two fewer accessories), well actually her absolute fave is the Pashley Poppy in blue but that is only available as 3-speed and I have persuaded her that she needs the 5-speed gears of the Princess or Britannia at least (there is a bit of a hill between here and school), so she wants the Britannia in red.

I have shown her some alternatives like some of the Gazelle models available with 7-speed nexus hubs: … re-t7.html
but they have been ruled out by daughter as not meeting appearance requirements. To be honest I will be quite happy to buy her the Britannia as even though its over priced and too heavy IMO, it is a much better choice than a moped, the bus, or lifts from mum and the bike is at least a practical design which should be reliable for her to take away with her in the future, but I was wondering what other choices there were out there, suitably stylish with 5 speed hub gears and hub or roller brakes, preferably with dynohub and chain guard?


Hypocacculus wrote:

Sorry for teasing — I couldn’t resist it. I think encouraging your daughter on to a bike is a great idea, I’m just envious.

A quick shufty shows that the 5 spd Sturmy Archer has a gear spread of 256% which is, apparently, good for hilly commuting, though I don’t know for sure, I just read that somewhere — I think it also depends which model it is.

But ultimately, surely it all depends on how low the lowest gear is? As a teenage girl, on my old, steel, heavy step through with 3 Sturmey Archer gears, I pretty much went everywhere in second, first was most definitely for hills and rubbish for cycling on the flat. Third was for getting a move on down hill or when I was feeling energetic. There was a big spread, although I have no idea what the ratios were, but I found it perfectly OK. London is not as hilly as Cornwall, but neither is it all flat. More gears are nice, but not essential.

I think you could lower the gearing by fitting a smaller chain wheel, or a larger sprocket?

If you definitely want a roadster type, Gazelle seems to be a popular brand. I came across this website that sells second hand Dutch Roadsters — it might give you some ideas of alternative bikes, although I’m sure they are all pretty heavy.

Anyway, just a few thoughts.


The Dawes Duchess finally arrived today after a delay due to damaged mudguards requiring replacement apparently. Building up was no big problem, v-brakes needed slight tweaking but the gears were indexing fine. A nice looking bike that rides very smoothly, is not desperately heavy and the basic 7-speed Shimano gears with thumbshifter seem easy to use. Daughter very pleased with it and it seems a lot better build quality than the Halfords one. We paid £268.99 including delivery from here: … anguage=en

Pashley sovereign roadster — Cycling UK Forum

there is a calculator here

so that you can fiddle about with the numbers.

But speed for effort is about 50:50 rolling resistance vs Aerodynamics at lowish speeds in the ‘not too sweaty’ (NTS) zone up to around 15mph. Weight is not anything like so important.

This means that if you really want to go fast you need nice tyres (which generally means they won’t be so puncture resistant) a more crouched riding position (less comfy perhaps, less good view of the countryside) and a lightweight machine. Often the real benefit in a lightweight machine is in the tyres and the riding position, not the weight per se. And of course you can fit nice tyres and lower handlebars to a heavyweight machine if you want to.

If you have a machine with a chaincase and a 3s gear it will (if it is lubricated with something better than the factory grease) be about as efficient as any bicycle transmission is likely to be, and far more durable. So if you are doing a lot of miles on a daily basis it makes an excellent choice.

Years ago I took a Raleigh ‘sports’ model (all steel!) and used it for basic transport. It weighed 40lbs and had a chaincase, hub generator etc. My only concession to speed was to invert the handlebars so they were a bit lower. Effort for effort I repeatedly showed that in rolling terrain I rode within about 3 to 4 mph of the speed I’d get on my racing bike (which was about half the weight and was a proper competition machine with sew-up tyres etc) and that the difference was mainly in the riding position and in the tyres; the Raleigh had boring old Michelin zig-zags (26 x 1-3/8″ ones) on and these were not a fast tyre even when pumped up pretty hard.

Suppose that you make a few changes to the bike you intend to buy and you get one that is (say) 1.5mph faster in the NTS zone. If you ride seven miles or so you will perhaps be a little less than 3 minutes faster over that distance. So you will be ‘paying’ five or six minutes a day for the upright roadster position, for example. It’ll probably work out you will be paying one or two minutes for a weighty machine vs a really light one (so light it won’t last, probably), and that the difference between the fastest and slowest tyres in (say) 37-622 will also be around 2-3 minutes a day.

Other bikes that are worth thinking of are

a) a recumbent machine; this will probably be faster and less of a struggle into headwinds. Not for everyone though.

b) a Pedersen. Aerodynamically just as bad as any other roadster if not worse, but a whole different style to the thing. Pedersen’s idea was ‘like walking, but faster’; which sounds a lot like your requirement to me. So you get a very upright riding position, a ridiculously comfortable saddle, a machine that is flexible where it needs to be (more comfy than many machines with suspension) and these can be built with light weight, too. Dursley Pedersen offered a machine with a 3s gear, a chaincase, mudguards etc at an all-up weight (they said) of less than 30lbs. They were doing this over 100 years ago!

I guess one way of looking at it is that if you (say) walked for a similar length of time as you intend to cycle, the difference between machines that are suitable for your use (realistically) is likely to be about the same as increasing the length of your walk by about a 1/4 of a mile or so. I personally don’t think this is a big deal but that other things like basic comfort or how much hassle you have with the machine are likely to be much more important.

Just to give you an idea, following an overhaul, I have been riding about 10 miles a day on my Gazelle for the last year or so and in that time I’ve pumped the tyres up once a week and I’ve lubed the chain once (once in that whole time) too. I’ve been using Schwalbe ‘Road Plus’ Tyres (that score 5/6 for puncture resistance) and so far they have kept the p-fairy at bay. The only other maintenance or repair I’ve done in that time is to fix a dicky wire into the rear light (which I didn’t spot during the overhaul :oops: ). The bike lives out of doors and gets rained on, birds poo on it… you get the idea, it is a real workhorse. I have to be honest and say that this is by far the least amount of faffing about per mile ridden that I have ever encountered. I’ve not had to adjust the brakes (90mm SA drums) in that time; when I do need to do it, it will take less than a minute. I think I will need a new BB unit in the next six months; the old one is about 15 years old.

Supposing I was five minutes faster every day, I reckon that would just about ‘pay for’ all the extra time I’d spend fixing punctures and doing other maintenance on a less robust machine. Maybe….

Swings and roundabouts, eh? :wink:




The Raleigh (Rudge, Sunbeam etc) roadsters (from the 50s and 60s) were not exactly lightweights either. Having said that they were built around a frameset that weighed around 9lbs which isn’t intrinsically heavy, even if a lot of the cycle parts were not at all lightweight. I’ve owned a few of these bikes with rim brakes. Just for fun I built one of those framesets up with the same hubs but light alloy rims, bars, etc, (no chaincase) and it was around 30lbs. Another machine I built up with no chaincase and light alloy bars, brake levers etc (but retained the FG hub, dyno lighting, and stainless steel rims etc and that weighed ~35lbs. A Raleigh ‘sports’ model with chaincase, dynohub lighting, three speed gear, steel rims, chaincase etc (but no rack etc) weighs around 40lbs.

Like Robc02 and others say, these weights are less than a modern Pashley. I guess the Pashley does have hub brakes but that doesn’t explain the weight difference; (in a 26″ wheel an aluminium rim vs a steel one cancels out the weight of a hub brake more or less) I’ve weighed a few Pashley roadster framesets and they seem to come out around 12lbs or so. It is difficult to see where all the extra weight comes from, but it is there all right! I guess sprung Brooks saddles weigh too, and so do all the other accessories…

Despite the weight I don’t think it is a big deal in flat terrain. Obviously if you can buy something that does the exact same job that is lighter, it is going to be a bit quicker. In hilly terrain I’d think twice about it and then only go ahead with it if the gearing were set as low as possible (so third gear on a three-speed set to about 65″). Even then, in towns like Bath, with pretty brutal hills, maybe not even on a five speed with lowered gearing.



That elevation gain over distance is similar to my ride from Leeds city centre to home in Chapel Allerton, and the hill, plateau, hill, sounds similar. (pic below) I have done this on five bikes, and my 5-speed Pashley Mailstar is much, much harder work than the others, even though the Sram five-speed hub has a wider range than the Sturmey five-speed on the Roadster.

I really like the Roadster, and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to a resident of York or Cambridge, but for somewhere hilly there are bikes much better suited. I would look at something like the Specialized Sirrus range to give you an upright ride on a lighter, sportier bike with a wide spread of gears. If you are taken with the low maintenance benefits of hub gears and brakes I’d look for a Nexus or Alfine 8-speed urban bike. I have a Trek Soho belt-drive bike with a hub gear range of 32″ to 100″ which gets me home from town with much less effort than the Pashley, and has a fairly upright ride with a short top tube and bars level with the saddle. It’s also a little quicker than the tourer on that ride as I don’t have the option of twiddling the 24″ gear up the steep bit.

There are, of course, many commuters doing this route and not needing or using gears nearly as low as I do, but I am fat and forty with dodgy knees so I like to spin my way uphill.

town home.JPG


having had a while ‘off the bike’ I have been using a sit-up-and-beg bike for utility riding and local journeys in the last nine months or so. Bike in question is a Pashley sovereign, about ten years old. Has SA ally hub brakes, 5 speed gear, chaincase, sprung brooks saddle, basket on the front (!). I originally purchased this bike in poor condition as a project, and having fettled it thought I’d better ‘test’ it properly… a fatal mistake… I have grown to be very fond of it. I have now done very many rides of 35 miles or so on it, something I didn’t expect.

So my critique -as a long-time cyclist- of this bike, which many keen cyclists wouldn’t ride more than a few miles on, is this:

Downsides; its heavy. Really heavy. The frame is very similar to Pashley built post-office bikes… But its still a small fraction of the total weight of you and the bike. The hub gear is great when it is working but needs a certain amount of care and attention. My bike was a project originally because of the hub. If you get a puncture the wheels don’t come out that easily, so for the first time in years I was using the ‘pull a bit of tube out and patch it’ technique. The riding position is very unaerodynamic.

Upsides; the bike is quite strongly built. Mine has 26 x 1 3/8″ tyres and I must say that if it were the only tyre in the world for road utility and touring riding I wouldn’t miss the others greatly. The chaincase is brilliant. The saddle is very comfortable, and when it is wet out, I put a Hovis bag (one without holes) over it; for some reason other plastic bags are markedly inferior; a good Hovis bag will last a month or so, and I’ve had proper saddle covers which have not done as well as that… The hub gear works really well; the ratios are a fair distance apart but you soon get used to it. Basically if you are not in a mad hurry it is fine, you just use a gear that is a bit lower than you would otherwise choose.

The riding position, so bad for a headwind, is actually brilliant for seeing the countryside, I really have ‘sat up and taken notice’ even on familiar routes. I’ve even taken the bike down numerous bridleways and nooks and corners. Once you get into the ‘no hurry’ mindset it is a different world… There is something very satisfying about trundling off down the pub on a summer’s evening on a bike like this, or taking it along a quiet bridlepath, unwrapping a picnic from the basket, and taking a quiet repast before continuing. You can turn up places in ordinary clothes. This may sound odd but I’m used to cycling places and then being stared at. I’ve even carried a set of golf clubs perched on the basket….

So far the headset has come loose (easily fixed), and the hub gear span its axle. This is probably what happened before I got the bike, too, and it is potentialy fatal for the gear. It was able to do this because there were no ‘anti-turn’ washers fitted. Maybe it had some when it was new but if they were the SA ones they probably cracked and fell apart, they are made of very brittle metal and only work well in a perfectly flat dropout (not the pashley then). I expect I shall fit some Shimano ones as soon as I can track some down,they appear to be made of decent steel. The other thing that happened was that the steel mudguards cracked in several places. This is because of aged brackets allowing vibration, and my penchant for exploring bidleways I expect. I was able to repair mine by MIG welding and careful grinding back to flush.

Although the frame is a bit heavier built, its about the closest thing you can now get to a 1950’s chaincase Raleigh. I mean this as a compliment- those bicycles were the zenith of the bicycle as utility transport in my view.

On the Pashley, the gears could be lower, and if I lived somewhere properly hilly I’d get a larger rear sprocket fitted or get used to the idea of sweating hard or walking the steep bits.

But all in all it is mostly just fine. If you are not in a big hurry, its, well, brilliant actually, and I never thought I’d be saying that about this bike.

I hope this is of interest




I absolutely agree with the notion that the style and weight put upon handlebars is at least as important as the steering geometry in determining the feel of the steering. The ‘weight’ load (from the rider) contains a vertical element and a forward thrust on drop-barred bikes. The forward thrust is an additional force that helps to centre the steering, and both this and the vertical weight force are almost absent when using the ‘sit up and beg’ riding position.

Whilst I don’t have steering angle data for such roadsters, note that this is only part of the equation; the fork offset together with this determines the ‘trail’. This is the distance between a point which is the intercept of projection of the steering axis and the ground, and a second point which is the centre of the tyre contact patch. Because the tyre contact is behind the steering axis projection, this gives the steering its primary self-centreing action. More fork offset means less trail, at any given head angle.

Normally bicycles have trail figures of ~ 1 1/2″ to about 1 3/4″, sometimes a little more. The former gives nice light steering, and the latter makes for stability at high speeds. Think ‘touring bike’ and ‘racing bike’ if you will. For a given trail figure, weight distribution, etc, steering feel stays about the same at normal road speeds, over a range of a few degrees of head angle.

Very often head angle and trail variation go together in frame design, so it is easy to associate ‘steering feel’ to head angle variations alone. At normal road speeds this is not so.

So why vary head angle at all? Frames with slack head angles must have more fork offset to maintain sensible trail values, and this becomes a ‘double whammy’ for fork loading; bumps in the road cause more fork deflection and the ride is a little easier. This simply isn’t an issue for many forms of racing, (although this wasn’t always the case) so steeper head angles can be used and this may also bring other benefits.

The other differences are a little more subtle, although several contributors to this thread have touched upon it. First a caveat; the maths here is very complicated, but its OK, we don’t necessarily need it….(Whitt and Wilson go into this in their excellent book, but it isn’t a ‘lightweight’ read..) With the bicycle vertical, turning the steering from side to side causes the steering head to move up and down very slightly. For a fixed trail value, the vertical movement is greater at slacker head angles (e.g. a supermarket trolley wheel has ‘trail’ but no vertical movement because of the upright swivel). This effect means that (again for a fixed trail value) the steering feel changes more with a heavier vertical load on the steering head, if the head angle is slacker. In addition, (and for similar reasons) the way twisting forces are developed around the head axis whenever the bike is leaning slightly also varies.

It is this last thing which also alters how the bike feels when riding out of the saddle. It can also give slack head angled bicycles a rather distinctive ‘flop’ into low speed (walking pace) turns; this can be a little disconcerting if you are not used to it. This effect -to a good approximation- is largely dependant on head angle. In fact, because of this, if the head angle is slack, an increased trail figure (which gives markedly better high speed stability) has -more or less- the reverse effect at low speeds.

I have often wondered if this is part of the reason that trail and head angle variations tend to go hand in hand the way they do. Note that it would be simple to leave the fork offset constant and simply vary head angle, in which case slacker head angles would yield more trail. In practice the reverse seems more likely, if anything; slack head angle setups generally have less trail which can only happen if the fork offset is increased more than is necessary to maintain trail.

We are none of us mathematicians or engineers first and foremost when we swing a leg over a bike; in truth we don’t need to be- the difference in low speed steering is immediate and obvious.

I hope that my comments have helped in some small way to explain why.




I realise this is an old post but thought I may be able to add a little to the discussion.

I have owned a Pashley Roadster 26 Sovereign for 3 years now, live in the Durham Dales, am 5ft 8, 47 years old and fat. My commute to work is 15 miles each way with climb of around 500ft, though it is up and down all the way. I don’t commute every day. Only when the weather is nice and I’m in no particular hurry to get to work. But when I do I absolutely love it! The bike has a real spring in its step and a life to it. It is comfortable. You can see what’s going on around you and riding it just makes me smile. I’ve never ridden a bike quite like it. It flies downhill and uphill it just doesn’t.

I chose it because it had everything on it. Lights, stand, lock, mudguards, rack. Yes, you can add these to any bike but the cost adds up. Add to that a wonderful Brooks saddle, drum/dynamo front hub, 5 speed Sturmey/drum rear hub, marathon tyres and twin wall wheels and I think it’s a bargain.

Cornering took some getting used to. It kind of glides around obstacles, a bit like an oil tanker does. But you get used to it and I can throw it around fine now but I did wind up in hedge on its maiden voyage.


The only bad point I found was the gear lever. Awful. Plastic and just not up to the job. Had loads of bother with slipping gears until I replaced the lever. Under warranty they replaced the hub and all sorts but it needed adjusting constantly. Sturmey do a metal 5 speed selector that looks so much nicer and works. Only cost £15. That’s all I’ve needed to do to it.

Lovely bike and as my neighbour said, «we’ll, at least no-ones going to nick it».

Princess Sovereign | Ladies Classic Bike

The Princess is the epitome of the classic English cycling tradition. Its timeless looks and upright riding position hearkens back to a simpler time of relaxed trips into town, tranquil jaunts into the countryside and an altogether more peaceful style of cycling. 

A sense of refinement and elegance runs through every aspect of the Princess. It is fitted with a combination of beautifully enamelled, hand-lined mudguards and rear skirtguards to keep you dry whilst preventing any mishaps as you glide through your surroundings. Also included is a full chaincase, which protects you from any unsightly grease marks and reduces any maintenance your bicycle may need. The Princess therefore represents the perfect marriage of beauty and practicality, making owning and riding this cycle the utmost pleasure. 

The Princess Sovereign model comes with the full complement of 5 or 8 wide-ratio hub gears, a handy frame-fitted lock, a versatile rear luggage rack and a front dynamo headlamp that never needs batteries. 

The styling of the Princess has been used at Pashley since our very earliest days in the 1920s, and as a result it is plain to see that the design has stood the test of time. The combination of this classic reliability with hand-built quality and the very best modern components makes the Princess an unrivalled cycling experience that will charm you with years of comfort, dependability and joy.

Standard UK delivery:

Clothing, parts {amp}amp; accessories: £4.99 per order

Bulky Items: £4.99 per item — Click here to see the list of bulky items

Bikes: £4.99 per bike — Includes assembly by our fully trained mechanics, pre-delivery inspection and safety check, packing in our custom bike box and multi-tool. Click here to see how we deliver your bike

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